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Red Oak...
Select grade
kiln dried Red Oak, cut to scale and size for your garden railroad needs.
Many sizes available
The Tree:
The most common hardwood in North America. The tree matures at about 70
feet in height and a trunk of 36".
The Wood:
Straight grain with a coarse texture. Generally works and finished well
but timbers from the Northern growing region will be more consistent in
color and have a finer texture. Large open pores produce distinctive grain.
Source
Region: Eastern United States and Canada.
Uses:
Red oak is largely cut into lumber, railroad ties, mine timbers, fenceposts,
veneer, pulpwood and fuelwood. It is remanufactured into flooring, furniture,
general millwork, boxes, pallets and crates, caskets, wooden ware and
handles. Red oak is not suitable for tight cooperage or exterior work.
Oak is full of tannic acid and in fact the tannic acid in the bark was
used for tanning animal hides for centuries. When the tannic acid mixes
with the iron in our water it creates a chemical blue dye. This is why
red oak stains black when water is allowed to penetrate the surface.....and
why you must be careful not to get water on your red oak flooring.
The Tree:
Quercus Rubra
Northern red oak is the largest group in this family and has the broadest
distribution across North America. It has great commercial significance.
The trees can grow to 150' and 4'+ in diameter. There are many other varieties
of red oak, Shumard, black, scarlet, water, willow, pin and nuttal oak,
that grow in more select areas. White Oaks are separated from their cousins
in the red oak family. The pores of the heartwood of white oaks are usually
plugged with a membranous growth known as tyloses. This makes it impenetrable
to liquids and ideally suited to the boat industry. The red oak, on the
other hand, has no tylose in its cells, and thus not used in any marine
based applications. Red oaks are broadly distributed across the United
States and southeastern Canada.
Wood Description:
The sapwood is nearly white and usually one to two inches thick; the heartwood
is brown with a tinge of red or pink. It seems that the farther south
the wood is cut the redder and coarser it gets. Due to slower growth,
wood cut in northern US and southern Canada has a finer texture, more
consistent pale pink color and somewhat denser, than central or southern
US oak.
Northern
Oak is preferred in all turning and flooring applications. Southern oak
is easier to mill, due to its softer texture, but does have more tendency
to splinter and tearout. The wood is most often straight grained, and
open pored. It can be steam bent with caution. After drying properly it
is one of the most dimensionally stable domestic woods, even in wider
widths. It is broadly available in a good selection of widths and thickness.
Lower grades show significant variation in color and of coarse knots.
Weight:
average for all red oaks is 48 lbs. per cu.ft.
Finishing:
Red Oak finishes and stains easily. It has none of the blotching problems
that are associated with birch or maple. The open pores absorb more stain,
so the grain pattern becomes quite evident when a dark stain is applied
to red oak. If you hope to achieve a near glass like appearance with the
top coat, it is almost always necessary to use a pore filler. For effect,
try top coating a couple of times and then tint the pore filler a contrasting
color, fill the pores, sand and then top coat again. The effect is quite
fascinating.
Machining:
All oaks have a relatively normal dulling effect on cutting edges. It
is not quite as easy as cherry or walnut to cut, but certainly not as
hard as maple. Red oak sands easily. The wood does have a strong grain,
so you do have to be careful in routing across the grain. Route the end
grain first and then the side grain, hoping the second pass will remove
any tear out. Oak can edge burn, but if your knives are sharp and you
don't stall the router in any one place, it is not a major problem. The
burn marks do sand off.
Always feed
oak through the jointer, aware of correct grain direction. It is a good
idea to predrill holes for nails or screws. Using proper drill bits, designed
for wood, will help to reduce the amount of walk occurring in any drilling
operation. Oak glues easily, but it is a good idea to remove the excess
before it dries. If this comes in contact with iron bar clamps, the resulting
blue stain may penetrate and stain your panel. As a turning wood, it tends
to splinter, but can be cut with sharp tools.
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